every seasoned chef knows that working with quality, seasonal ingredients is critical to the creation of any dish, and coffee is certainly no different. however, unlike the experience of purchasing a delicately wrapped gourmet cheese or opening an exclusive bottle of wine, the art of preparing a sensational cup of coffee involves a series of steps.
“with coffee, it has to come from the farm in perfect production condition, it has to be roasted beautifully, it has to be bagged and aged, and then you have the barista who has to grind it,” explains matthew lewin, champion barista and consultant to coffee with more than 10 years of experience in the specialty coffee industry behind it.
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for lewin, the secret to amazing beer depends on the business you decide to trust. they can help you guide that,” she suggests.
Comparing a grinder to a chef’s knife, the coffee expert reveals that “you don’t need the best espresso machine, you don’t need the best associated tools, but you do need an amazing grinder.” Beyond that, Lewin points out that quantities, duration and temperature are the determinants of success.
“Often, that 95 point coffee will have the most incredible clarity, sweetness, texture, flavor and florality.” – matthew lewin
While today’s market is awash with specialty coffees, those with the most refined palates can tell the difference between a coffee that scored 90 points versus 85 points.
“often that 95 point coffee will have the most incredible clarity, sweetness, texture, flavor and florality,” he says. “it will just have the volume turned up on everything.”
Like many things in life, google can be a good reference point for exploring the world of high-end coffee, but it’s also worth talking to a local barista for guidance.
Perhaps the biggest threat to the industry is the impacts of climate change and the covid-19 pandemic, which have seen prices rise as much as 40 percent.
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“brazil produces the largest amount of coffee in the world,” says lewin. “They have had frosts and droughts and all kinds of climatic impacts, which have decreased production.”
Those who can turn a blind eye to the fact that some premium coffees have been naturally processed by animals will find that luxury coffee is not only a joy to the senses, it supports remote communities and enhances industry standards.
kopi luwak, US$1,300 per kilogram
If you haven’t tried this coffee yet, one thing to keep in mind is that wild-sourced and cultivated kopi luwak have different price tags, as well as ethical implications. To maximize profits, farmed kopi luwak means that civets, the animals behind the brew, are force-fed the coffee cherries in cages.
While coffee connoisseurs have mixed opinions regarding the flavor, the enzymatic process the beans undergo as they pass through the civet’s digestive tract is thought to contribute to their smooth flavor and complex aroma. This tropical cat also has a knack for choosing only the best cherries to chew on, which means a better quality brew. Kopi Luwak is produced primarily in Indonesia on the islands of Java, Bali, and Sumatra.
black ivory, us$2,500 per kilogram
produced in a remote province in northern thailand, ivory black coffee requires minimal machinery and relies instead on the natural digestion of elephants.
Only the best high altitude Arabica cherries are selected and most are unrecoverable during processing. around 33 kilograms of raw cherries results in one kilogram of the finished product, which is tended to by paid elephant keepers and high school students once the cherries have been eaten and digested by the elephants. supply of black ivory comes down to two factors: your appetite and the availability of coffee cherries.
Sold primarily to five-star hotels and Michelin restaurants, drinking a cup of this rare concoction is an opportunity to support the well-being of rural communities while enjoying notes of chocolate and spices without a hint of bitterness. however, the flavor is ultimately determined by the elephants’ digestive enzymes.
saint helena, us$494 per kilogram
The remote island of Saint Helena in the South Atlantic Ocean is one of the purest environments on earth and is where Napoleon was exiled. It is here that Green Tip Arabica Bourbon is harvested, processed and roasted to bring out its distinctive qualities that are celebrated by coffee aficionados. Wet-processed with local spring water, Saint Helena coffee has notes of black cherry and chocolate that hint at its Yemeni origins. In 2016, Starbucks introduced this coveted coffee, which retailed for $80 per 250 grams.
“It’s a delicate cup with subtle floral aromas that lead to soft citrus and caramel notes,” explains Leslie Wolford, Starbucks Coffee Quality Specialist.
farming the emerald, us$440 per kilogram
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Hacienda La Esmeralda, which sold for US$440 per kilogram at various auctions last year, is a family business that produces award-winning specialty coffee in the highlands of southwestern Panama. Since 2007, the Petersons have been selling high-quality coffee at record prices through annual private online auctions.
When tasters first tasted the company’s high-altitude geisha coffee, it was clear that the petersons had embarked on the right path that led them to win the 2004 best of panama competition and establish themselves as world leaders in the coffee production, winning that award and many more times since then.
he farms the graft, us$1,100 per kilogram
As the first coffee farm in Guatemala to be certified carbon neutral along with Rainforest Alliance certification, Graft (named for a native fruit) is managed by the Aguirre family, who are dedicated to beneficial agricultural practices and social responsibility.
With its mineral-rich non-volcanic soil and high-altitude location, coffees that come from el injerto clearly express the terroir and should not be confused with roasters that label their coffees ‘finca el injerto’, but do not have been cultivated in this region.
molokai, 97 US dollars per kilogram
Genuine Molokai Coffee is grown primarily on the island of Molokai in Maui County, Hawaii. Coffees of Hawaii is the company responsible for meeting the global demand for Molokai, which is one explanation for its exuberant price tag. When labeled “Molokai Prime”, coffee drinkers are assured of high quality. red catuai is the highly prized arabica variety that thrives in the red soils found here and translates into rich tasting notes.
fazenda santa ines, us$46 per kilogram
Grown at the foot of Brazil’s Mantiqueira Mountains in southern Minas, Fazenda Santa Ines is a bright, sweet coffee with citrus notes and low acidity.
Since 1979, the Pereira family has been in the business of growing coffee and setting world records with the help of a dedicated workforce of 135 families. In 2005 Fazenda Santa Ines achieved a score of 95.85 in the Brazilian Cup of Excellence thanks to the favorable conditions in Minas Sur and meticulous processing to ensure quality.
ospina, us$790 for 250 grams
Cultivated for five generations, Ospina coffee is produced from typical Arabica beans, which are grown in the tropical forests of the Andes in shaded conditions. These mountain slopes are rich in volcanic ash, which fertilizes the soil and enhances the warm, nutty flavor of this Colombian coffee. the way to enjoy it is to grind the whole grains and boil them in pure water at the right temperature (between 91 and 96 degrees Celsius).
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