Let’s be honest for a second: surfers aren’t exactly known for being academics. while there are many educated and well-spoken members of our community, there are far more jeff spicolis among us than matt warshaws and cliff kaponos.
But despite our reputation as Neanderthal beach bums with limited vocabulary (“sick dude!”) and an affinity for Mary Janes, surfing is increasingly becoming a hobby of the educated professional. in other words, surfers are starting to read! and that’s great news, because it turns out there are a lot of great surf books out there.
Reading: Best surfing coffee table books
Whether you’re interested in novels, memoirs, surf photography books, or even scientific explanations of surf physics, we’ve got you covered. Dive into our list of the best surf books and surf coffee table books. if you can read this article, we’re pretty sure you can read an entire book, as long as the swell doesn’t turn up!
best surf books
touching the source
Kem Nunn, one of the most prolific novelists of the “surf lit” genre, grew up surfing in Northern California and has been writing professionally for four decades. In addition to a number of television writing credits, he has written six novels, most of which revolve around the surf and beach lifestyle.
the most famous of these is tapping the source, which served as the inspiration for the film’s breaking point (and the film’s remake). Touching the Fountain can best be described as “surf noir” and follows protagonist Ike Tucker, who comes to Huntington Beach in search of her missing sister and the three men who may have murdered her.
Surrounded by the glitz and glamor of the sandy feet of Southern California’s quintessential surf town, Tucker navigates the seedy underworld of HB and encounters a wide array of unsavory characters (many of whom surf when not busy engaging in sadistic, debauched behavior).
tapping the source is widely heralded as one of the great surf novels, and was a finalist for the national book award.
barbaric days: a life of surfing
william finnegan, a staff writer for the new yorker, is a well-known writer who has covered a variety of topics, including apartheid in south africa, poverty in the united states, and politics in central and south america. he is also a lifelong surfer who traveled the world in search of waves during the 1970s and 1980s, which is the focus of his memoir, Barbarian Days: A Life of Surfing.
following finnegan from his childhood on oahu to the remote locales of the south pacific, africa and asia, and then back to the waves that break closer to home in california and the east coast, the memoir chronicles the social upheaval of the 1960s., explains the history and pecking orders of some of the best waves in the world and portrays surfing through the lens of one of the greatest writers of our generation.
Winner of the Pulitzer Prize for autobiography, Barbarian Days is considered one of the best surf books ever written.
swell: a wake-up voyage of a wakeboarder
liz clark made a name for herself as a surfer, environmentalist, patagonian ambassador, and sailing adventurer, exploring the world’s oceans solo on her 40-foot swell sailboat. After 10 years of exploration, she wrote the memoir Swell: A Surfer’s Awakening Journey to share her adventures, discoveries, and insights with the world.
Through a series of true stories from his years on the open sea, Clark takes a deep dive into the challenges, the triumphs, the relationships, his connection to nature, and the unity of all life. Part adventure story, part life lesson and 100 percent inspiration, Swell: A Surfer’s Awakening Journey speaks to everyone who has ever dreamed of making it big.
breathe
A prolific Australian author who has been named a Living Treasure by the National Trust of Australia, Tim Winton explores big wave surfing, freediving, and the psychological and physiological ramifications of pushing the body to the limit in the acclaimed book Breath.
Set in Western Australia, the story follows two teenagers who are mentored by an enigmatic big wave surfer named Sando. the trio push themselves into huge waves, shark-infested waters, and a never-ending obsession with the power of breath, exploring their limits through physical prowess, relationships, and even sexuality.
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At the same time, they are drawn deeper and deeper into the ramifications of Sando’s dark and mysterious past. A classic coming-of-age story for surf enthusiasts, Breathing forces the reader to confront their own obsessions and perceived limitations, and explores the consequences of going beyond what one thinks is possible.
the encyclopedia of surfing
A decades-long project of one of surfing’s great writers, The Encyclopedia of Surfing presents the history of surfing in small, easy-to-digest bits curated by legendary surf writer Matt Warshaw. Over the years, the project took on a life of its own, growing rapidly to include thousands of entries and hundreds of photos.
Touted as “the most comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular and animated history of this fascinating sport,” the encyclopedia of surfing is supported by a companion website and is possibly the most important written publication. work on (and about) the history of surfing.
the history of surfing
Another epic surf book from Matt Warshaw, The Story of Surfing covers the evolution of surfing through the decades, complete with over 250 rare photographs and plenty of enthusiasm. From surfing’s Hawaiian roots to the rise of competitive surfing and beyond, this book is a must-read for anyone who wants to learn about the captivating history of surfing and all its colorful characters.
the hour of the knights
Gentlemen’s Hour, Don Winslow’s surf noir novel, touches on just about every cliché you can imagine, which is why it’s so funny. The story follows private investigator Boone Daniels, an ex-cop who makes his living chasing leads, but ultimately lives only to surf.
He starts every morning with his surf crew, the Dawn Patrol (look, we told you that was cliché!), a tight-knit group of friends who always have each other’s back. When a member of the group (and a legendary local surfer) is murdered, Boone agrees to defend the young man accused of the crime, shocking the small community of Pacific Beach, San Diego.
As he investigates, he soon realizes there’s much more to the story than just murder. An outcast in his own neighborhood, he has to weather the storm alone, discovering the truth as he manages to stay alive.
in search of captain zero
already established as a successful author after the release of his drug smuggling opus cosmic banditos, allen weisbecker delved into his past (and surf culture in general) with his memoir In Search of Captain Zero: The Journey Through A surfer’s road beyond the end. of the road.
After his longtime friend goes missing in Central America in the late 1990s, Allen sells his belongings, packs his boards and dog in his pickup truck, and begins a solo road trip from the East Coast of ee uu. through Mexico to Central America. he eventually makes his way to the caribbean coast of costa rica.
Along the way, he has various misadventures, rides a variety of waves, and explores concepts like escapism, friendship, loyalty, and paradise lost. In Search of Captain Zero he received wide acclaim, and the fictional “prequel” to it, Cosmic Bandits, was under contract to be made into a movie.
the stormrider world surf guide
The Stormrider Guide Series bills itself as “the largest and most comprehensive wave reference guide on ‘planet surfing,'” and includes a series of volumes covering areas such as Europe, Asia, South America, north and center and south. america.
The world stormrider surf guide volume is unsurprisingly the largest and most comprehensive of all, providing detailed information on hundreds of regions and waves around the globe, including wave season, weather , dangers, crowds, landmarks, and cultural descriptions.
The coffee table-quality book also includes beautiful images from many of the world’s most respected surf photographers (and some of lush palm trees 🙂), making it a must-have for any serious traveling surfer.
the tribes of palos verdes
A coming-of-age story set in (you guessed it!) Palos Verdes, The Tribes of Palos Verdes tells the story of brothers Medina and Jim, who find different ways to deal with their parents’ disintegrating marriage.
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As Jim is sucked into drugs and alcohol, Medina discovers the ocean and develops a love of surfing, finding solace in the water while dealing with his mother’s mental breakdown, his father’s infidelity, and self-destructive behavior. his brother’s. Joy Nicholson’s novel was recently adapted into a 2017 film with Jennifer Garner and Alicia Silverstone.
open sky church
few people in surfing history have been as polarizing and influential as nat young. A world champion in 1966 and 1970, Nat has also won the Australian contest three times and the Bells Beach contest four times. Three decades later, Nat made headlines again when he fell victim to surf rage and was severely beaten by an old rival/nemesis after an altercation in Angourie.
Launched in 2019, Church of the Open Sky is Nat’s autobiography/memoir, a collection of colorful stories about the waves and the people who shaped him over the years, including Midget Farrelly and Miki Dora. The book also delves into his other varied interests, which include modeling, writing, filmmaking, flying, conservation, activism, and family life. Church of the Open Sky is a must read for any student of Australian surfing history.
science of surfing
written by tony butt, resident meteorologist and surf expert at magicseaweed.com, surf science: an introduction to surfing waves presents surf science in layman’s terms, making what is often a dense and esoteric theme accessible to anyone. regardless of knowledge or experience.
the book “bridges the gap between surf books and textbooks” and can help readers learn how to forecast surf and conditions at locations around the world.
the dogs of winter
Another classic from surf noir novelist Kem Nunn, The Hounds of Winter centers on a fictional secret California surf spot called “heart attacks”: a wave shrouded in myth and legend that breaks a mile offshore and withstands 30 foot waves.
Struggling photographer Jack Fletcher thinks shooting heart attacks is his chance at a fresh start, and he teams up with surfing legend Drew Harmon. But things get complicated with Drew’s wife, Kendra, a young woman obsessed with the murder of a local girl. Kendra searches for the truth behind the murder and follows her investigation into the chilling darkness.
my people go surfing
yvon chouinard is a living legend and one of the most respected entrepreneurs/environmentalists in the united states. He helped pioneer the sport of rock climbing and the climbing equipment industry, started the successful Patagonia clothing/equipment brand, and was a prominent philanthropist/environmentalist throughout his career. And through it all, Chouinard has never forgotten his love of surfing.
his memoir, let my people go surfing, shares chouinard’s journey and explains how his wild adventures and commitment to doing good have shaped the spirit of one of the world’s most beloved outdoor clothing brands
native moments
A coming-of-age adventure novel set in Costa Rica, Nic Schuck’s Native Moments follows Sanch Murray as he wanders Costa Rica after his brother’s death. On a surf trip through the Tamarindo area in 1999 with his mentor and friend Jake Higdon, Sanch has broadened his world view by meeting a variety of different characters who have made Costa Rica his home.
Between battles with dysentery and failed attempts as a matador, Sanch chases waves, learns from a shaman, and falls for a beautiful local girl who he suspects may be working as a prostitute. The lessons he learns and the perspectives he gains along the way shape Sanch’s personality and future, while at the same time helping the reader develop their own new understanding of the world.
strait of tijuana
kem nunn has a lot of books on this list, and that’s because he’s written a lot of books on surfing! Strait of Tijuana is his most recent book, a 2014 novel about loss and redemption, set on the border between San Diego and Tijuana.
The story follows Fahey, an ex-con and inmate who was once a top-notch surfer. He finds Magdalena being chased by dogs near a surf spot called the Strait of Tijuana, located along the California-Baja border. Magdalena fled Tijuana after surviving an attack and is taken in by Fahey, despite the fact that the act goes against her nature and soon brings trouble to her life.
magdalena is an environmental activist who works to support the thousands of workers who are exploited in foreign-owned factories on the mexico border. in doing so, she becomes entangled not only with the government, but also with hired thugs trying to stop activists like her. As Magdalena and Fahey get closer, they are attacked by three assassins led by Armando Santoya, who, in a drug-addled fog, has decided that he must kill Magdalena.
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